Thursday, September 22, 2011

You Are Here

You are in Mexico, and the water is warm.
Your eyebrows are crusty and you've surfed a lot today.
The waves are small and clean and a deep-afternoon gold.

Should you paddle out for a few more?

There is beer on the beach, but yes, you should paddle out for a few more.

You grab your 7’6” egg, not bothering to leash or wax. You stroke out to the lineup. The waves are small, clean, and a deep-afternoon gold. The water is warm and your eyebrows are crusty and you are in Mexico.

You spin and catch one. Early. You glide and swoop. You lean back. You step forward. You throw your arms over your head because you’re in Mexico and the water is warm and you’ve surfed a lot today.

There is beer on the beach, but you should paddle out for a few more. You stroke back out to the lineup on your 7’6 egg. You spin and catch and glide and swoop. You throw your arms over your head. You should paddle out for a few more. You are in Mexico, the water is warm, there is beer on the beach and the waves are small and clean and soon it will be dark.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Oh, man, that sounds so nice....even when my ribs are black and blue from the lack of 5mm of padding. Sunset, warm water, the promise of beers and avocados and mangos picked off the trees. Good stuff. How many days until summer vacation?
The board is stunning.

Anonymous said...

Nice words, nice board. Feeling particularly eggy and dreamy these days, so very resonant.