Friday, April 3, 2009

Giant Shoulders

Sometimes it takes an entire village to do an important thing, like raise a child, or battle zombies, or hire samurai to defend itself from thieves.
Bringing a surfboard to life is not that dissimilar--often its design is a collaboration between surfer and shaper, between past and present, wave and waverider. The builder draws from a lineage of specialists, coaxes that knowledge and experience into a form and, if lucky, gets to contribute a stitch or two to the ever-evolving tapestry of surfboard making.
This 9'7" single fin log is a product of such an effort. Although only four hands ever touched this board during its creation, it is the result of the work of many, none the least of Mr. G. Cooper, whose guidance was as generous as it was mind-blowingly cool.
His old partner in crime, Ms. L. Anderson, then had her way with it, showing us kids how it's done.
The board is for The New Guy, journeyman surfer and Econoline van enthusiast, who recently arrived on our tiny stretch of coast with a lofty set of log riding ideals and the skills to back them up. He had a board order in before the silverware was even unpacked.
He, too, will stand on the shoulders of the traditional longboard surfers that preceded him, drawing idea and inspiration, perhaps tickling their ears as he dangles ten toes over.
And the rest of us, we will begin to make out a faint murmer of voices, a shifting of bodies in their seats, a shout or two of surprise from the kids. More voices will be added until, amidst the din, someone else paddles out into the lineup, spins, and strokes into a rising pulse of energy . They will stand and track their hand along the green face of the wave, their fingers making trails of diamonds that will linger for a moment, then fade into the distance.


retro shaper said...

That is one American Bad A$$ surfboard.
That of these days.
Only two hands touch mine unless I let Stella help but the last time I did that, I got a sequined fabric nose on my SUP...
Fatty is the real deal, she could make anything look good (kidding).
I am down your way tomorrow, hanging out 22 miles west of Redway/Garberville, as the crow flies anyway.
Machi Land.

HeadHighGlassy said...

Thanks, Retro. Any problems paddling out a sequined board way up there?
Garberville is still a ways away from Sonoma County--maybe the winds won't be so gnarly up (down) there...?

Anonymous said...

Screw the board. That lawn looks KILLER! Who's the gardener?

retro shaper said...

Naw, every one knows I am CORE!
Lol, its funny looking but it never needs wax.
I have a few days so I am looking for some wind protection. Was thinking Santa Cruz but the weather/swell thing isn't lining up for me.

Surfsister said...

Board porn is so 2008! Please stop posting pictures of these boards, as if you think they're worthy of my gaze.

Okay, they are more than worthy of my gaze! Keep that board porn coming. I swear if I saw this board in the water, I'd have to jack someone for it (which is hard to do when you're only 5'4" and not every imposing . . . and female).

Hot damn! That is a fine-looking board.

HeadHighGlassy said...

Thanks for the props, Sis, but i wouldn't be jacking anyone with that bad knee of yours.

clayfin said...

very nice!!! Need some better pics of the aft bottom though...

retro shaper said...

The board was all the talk in the line up today.