Monday, June 23, 2014

Almost Famous

Stett Holbrook did a great job capturing the current spirit of NorthCoast surfing in this week's North Bay Bohemian. What's present is his article is accurate: a deep respect for surfers--by surfers--that may not be present in all of California's wave zones.
What's missing are all the boring, shrill stereotypes about surfers being myopic and territorial. Finally! Instead, Mr. Holbrook subtly highlights our coast's inclusivity. Our respect-for-just-making-it-out-into-the-lineup attitude. Our commitment to cold, dark, raw waters that are hard to love and, for some, hard to turn away from.
The article focuses on, well, me, but it really paints a thoughtful, articulate picture of surfing north of The Bridge. It can be read HERE.
Feel free to 'Like' and 'Comment' and stuff.

Speaking of surfing, remember that board from last post? Well, it's been all glassed up, waxed, and shredded. Initial reports: Oh boy.

Here she is all purty. Tony Mikus did a bang-up resin tint that's more 'kelp gold' than 'baby poop brown'. Thankfully.
I really like Tony--he's a character that's been under the surf-industry radar since the 70s. I like him to sign my personal boards. Here's what he came up with this pork chop:

Festina Lente is Latin for 'Make Haste Slowly'. Basically, it means that slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. So hurry up and slow down. Perfect, as I issued a rush on this board that probably had the entire glassing crew cursing my name.
It had to be done. Our plans for Baja were set. The paparazzi from Stett's article were relentless. South swell pulses were on the radar. Shredding had to happen, and it had to happen on this board.
And it did!
Wanna know what it's like to paddle out a new design with weird, homemade fins into hollow, dredging, top-to-bottom conditions?
How the hell should I know?
Both of today's sessions were in playful, peaky, shoulder-high mushburgers with fun, lined-up inside sections. This lil' lass dominated: easy entry, positive bottom turns, and loose, drivey fun.
Here's a rocker shot:
I can't say with complete honesty that both of today's sessions were totally 'sober' or 'without the influence of Tecate and tequila', but I can say this: this surfing life is a gift.


Makai Kalii said...

Hey Jamie,
Great article, but unable to find copies of the Bohemian with this cover, only 'June 25-July 1' is on the stands now. Is this a past edition?
Would like to have a couple of copies.

HeadHighGlassy said...

Hey Makai Kalii, the cover was from the June 18-25 issue--maybe try emailing them to see if they'll send you a back issue?

Unknown said...

Is this celebrity shit going to make the price of your boards go up? Seriously, my hips' been out and I've been out of the water on either Blood Red or Mango Lady recently, only doing rehab surf on a 9.6 Pavel singlefin that doesn't hurt my hip to surf because I can't actually turn it - Jim Dismukes

HeadHighGlassy said...

Hang in there, Jim! Take a few fish-oil pills and rest assured that repeat customers enjoy price-fixed status. Unfortunately, due to demand, I do have to charge for autographing peoples' chests, so please keep that in mind.

e. said...

Good article my friend. Reminds me, I have a photo idea, with you in mind. Glad all is well.